Starting a New RC Model Nitro Engine

When you first purchase your new nitro RC car, probably the first thing you’re going to have a time with is breaking in that new engine. Sometimes, just starting it and getting it to stay that way will be your biggest challenge. The engine is new and not worn into itself causes it to be stiff, low on compression and causes even the best engines to be a complete bear when it comes to getting going. Here are some tips to help you on your journey to an enjoyable RC experience before you feel like throwing that new car against a hard brick wall.

The first thing you must do is ensure you have the correct fuel, usually a nice 20% nitro content will do the job and give the engine maximum lubrication for breaking in and also for a lifetime of enjoyment. Go ahead and fill the tank all the way. Make sure all the batteries in the radio, car and if you have a glow igniter, are full and in tip top condition. Take the glow plug out and while holding the sides, connect the glow igniter to make sure the plug glows bright and hot, even while you blow on it. Don’t touch the coil, it will burn you! If it glows nicely, put it back in the head with the gasket and tighten it up with a snug turn, there is never a need to wrench down on it hard. If it does not glow, check the battery in the igniter and connections. If all that is good, try another plug.

Remove the fuel line from the muffler and give a good blow through it to ensure the fuel reaches the carburetor; you should see the fuel go through the fuel line into the carb. Reconnect the fuel line onto the muffler. At this point, it may not hurt to put one or two drops of fuel directly into the air intake of the carburetor. This acts as a choke and gives the engine a little boost to start. At this point, it would be a good idea to make sure all radio gear is in working order and all the servos are working as needed. Turn on the radio then the car’s radio gear, turn the throttle trim up so you see about a 1/32” to 1/16” gap in the throttle body from seat.

Most fuel mixtures are factory set, so go ahead and start the engine either by pulling or electric start. Most engines will start, rev and then shut down. If you have to pull more than ten times, stop, ensure there is fuel in the carburetor, prime as needed, and try to start again. Don’t forget in anticipation to reconnect the glow igniter. If you have success and the engine continues to run and idle, run your model through at least three tank fulls of fuel not exceeding half throttle. After the third tank, you’re ready to put your new model through all the fun it has to offer.

Now here comes the tricky part, for those of you who may not be so lucky as to have a smooth starting motor. As I’ve mentioned before, most nitro engine fuel mixtures are factory set, but that doesn’t mean they will work all the time. I’ve found out through rule of thumb, that most engines will work on these guidelines if your engine continues to be a bear. The fuel mixture screw which is usually the top screw on the carburetor and the one that is closest to the incoming fuel line, should be set at 2 ½ turns from the seat. With a small screw driver, gently, and I do mean “Gently”, screw this screw in while counting the turns clockwise; which means turning it in while counting the complete turns. Do not force any carburetor screw no time, no way. When it stops, it stops and be happy with that! Keep those number of turns that you counted in your head; you may need that guidance later. Now turn the fuel mixture screw out 2 ½ turns. Now comes the fuel/air mixture screw located in the throttle body or horizontally in the throttle slide. Turn this screw inward and count the complete turns until it seats. Keep this in mind for possible future use. Turn the fuel/air mixture screw out 2 ½ turns.

Now you are ready to start the engine again, going through all the steps as you had previously. Ensure there is fuel to the carburetor by blowing on the line from the exhaust, open the throttle trim and connect the glow igniter. Try to start your engine again, but don’t pull more than ten times. If it starts, you can adjust the fuel mixture either in our out, depending on how the engine runs. If it’s spitting and sluggish, screw it in. If the engine is revving too high upon starting, screw it out. If the engine still won’t start, try to move the air/fuel mixture in or out, more than likely out, by ¼ turn increments. Keep in mind, the air/fuel mixture screw is very, very sensitive, but will only respond to how much the fuel mixture screw is set. Your engine will start and run, but it will depend on these adjustments as to how fast it will start and run.

Once the engine is running, ensure there is always a plume of exhaust coming out; and your hand, when held at the exhaust, will be slightly wet from fuel. If this does not happen, you have the fuel mixture too lean. This is where you would turn the fuel mixture screw out just bit until the engine responds with zeal and idles appropriately. You can now adjust the throttle trim on your radio to have your engine idle as to not engage the transmission. If you idle is too high, the wheels will continue to turn, which means the clutch is turning fast enough to engage. You want your idle to be fast enough for your engine to run, but does not engage the clutch. You will find an Idle adjustment screw just opposite the slide barrel; or on the housing on a rotary carburetor, just parallel to the input shaft. Turn the Idle screw in our out so the engine idles nicely while your radio throttle trim is in center position.

Some hobby shops have an engine break in program like Wondertrail, where they will break in the engine for you and adjust the initial settings on the carburetor, for a small fee. This is one of the advantages of buying from your local hobby shop where they can assist you if you have continued problems.

You can purchase a new Nitro RC Model at Wondertrail.com

An Overview of RC Nitro Fuel

Nitro fuel It is NOT gasoline! Never try to feed an rc nitro engine gasoline, because it will cause all sorts of problems. Besides, it won't work anyway! RC nitro fuel is made up of a custom blend of 3 primary components.

1) NITROMETHANE. Also commonly referred to as NITRO for short. Nitro methane is derived from propane. In itself, nitro is not even extremely flammable as one might think. The real power producing potential of nitro methane is that it carries additional oxygen with it into the combustion process. It acts as a fuel too, but the molecule carries oxygen along with it. In a way, nitro methane is sort of like a chemical "supercharger" for an engine. It helps get more oxygen into the engine to help burn more fuel and produce more power. For most nitro engines used in RC trucks, a 20% nitro blend is probably a good balance. Most nitro engines in cars and trucks could probably tolerate fuels with up to 30% nitro, but it's probably best to avoid going much over that in a typical nitro engine. 20% nitro is probably one of the most common fuel blends for RC truck nitro engines, and would be a safe choice for most people. Follow the recommendations of your engine manufacturer, and you should be safe.

2) METHANOL. Methanol is sometimes referred to as "wood alcohol" because originally it was derived from distilled wood products. However, methanol can be made from more than one source, and today it is very commonly derived from natural gas. Methanol is the primary fuel component of nitro fuels and is usually also the most dominant ingredient in a nitro fuel mixture. Methanol is also a common fuel used in full size motorsports and racing. The methanol has a natural intercooling effect that helps to cool both the intake air/fuel mixture which means cooler, denser (more oxygen) and more power potential. Also, the evaporative cooling effect of methanol can help keep engine temps running cooler than other fuels. Methanol contains the primary energy content of nitro fuels.

3) OIL. The oil portion of the nitro fuel blend is very interesting. Over the years, there has been much debate and changing recommendations. First there was castor oil. Then there were synthetics. Some fuels have been blended with all castor oil and some with all synthetic oils. Today, most nitro fuels contain a combination of both synthetic and castor oil. Castor oil is a naturally occurring oil that is derived from a plant. It is a natural lubricant that has some very unique properties. When subjected to higher temperatures, castor oils will actually begin to break down. Normally, this would be a bad thing for a lubricant to do in an internal combustion engine. However, in the case of castor oil, this "breaking down" is one of its greatest strengths! When castor oil breaks down at high temperatures, its properties change and its high temperature lubricating properties actually increase! As engine temperatures go up further, the castor oil continues to break down and forms a lubricating film that actually protects the engine better. In the process, this film or residue (like varnish) can also gum up the engine and cause other problems. On the other hand, synthetic oils typically are much cleaner and normally do not leave residues behind. Synthetic oils can help lubricating metal surfaces at higher RPM's when temperatures are lower. However, when temperatures rise, synthetic oils can break down and actually burn off leaving little protection for the engine. So, there are strengths and weaknesses of both castor and synthetic oils. Thankfully, most modern RC trucks run on nitro fuel blends that utilize the strengths of each type of oil, and contain a blend of both castor and synthetic oils to help offer maximum protection for the nitro engine under many different conditions.

In addition to these 3 primary components to RC nitro fuel, there are often other additives added in small quantities which help alter some of the characteristics of the nitro fuel. Among others, these additional RC nitro fuel additives might include anti-foaming agents and substances to help prevent corrosion inside the engine.

Courtesy of http://www.rc-trucks.org/rc-nitro-fuel.htm

Traxxas Rustler (TX3705) and Stampede (TX3605) Electric RTR RC Trucks

The New Traxxas Rustler and Stampede electric trucks are probably the very best "bang for your buck" when it comes to really good performance at a great price. These trucks get up to 35 Mph and 30 Mph, respectively, with a high quality battery. We used the Venom 3300 mAh batteries in both of ours and are very satisfied with the power and longevity. On a fully charged battery, we get about 40 minutes of quality run time. Both of these vehicles operate with the Traxxas XL-5 electronic speed control which is easily programmable for every need. You can program a training mode which limits the models speed to about 15 Mph for the younger, less experienced crowd; kick it up to normal operation which gets it to about 27 Mph with full reverse; or open it up to race mode where it will hit their posted top speed, but blocking out reverse so it won't rip out the gearing. All this is done with the push of a button on the ESC. All model functions are completely digital proportional. This means if you turn the wheels just a tad bit, they move just a tad bit. The throttle is also fully digital proportional so you can creep a small creep or blast out of the barriers, all at your desired speed with ultimate smooth accuracy. The chassis are pretty durable and we have yet to bust up anything, even though we've been doing some high jumps, everything on both trucks hold up well. When you get either kit, you will also need to order a battery (two preferably so you can race for a long time), and you will need a charger. We like the Megatech 3812 because it is simple, adjustable and convenient with the AC/DC operation so you aren't limited to an AC plug. Of course, as with most models, you still need those dastardly 8 AA batteries for the transmitter. Of course, without the radio, the models wouldn't be remote control. If you'd like to test drive one of these trucks, check out the Traxxas website and click on the Test Drive icon, type in your zip and it will tell you what store in your location has them ready to rock.

If you would like to purchase the 3705 Rustler Stadium Truck or the 3605 Stampede Monster Truck, visit Wondertrail.com

XTM Mammoth ST RTR Monster Truck

All I can say and did say when we opened this thing up, was, holy s**t. We couldn’t believe the power of the 24.7 XTM engine in this truck. The Mammoth is a ready to run machine with gut loads of power; and that’s even before it hits second gear, which we didn’t see too often because it was already hitting about 35 MPH before it hit. The full time 4WD will climb just about anything in its path, including a 9” flat curb when we got a little disoriented and careless. It has massive 6” tires and all the power it needs to turn them. In regard to its king size, a 1/8 scale truck, that’s about 20” long, you don’t have to look hard to find it. I think the best thing about this “Truggy” is its low center of gravity. It takes an awful lot to flip it and to tell you the truth, I haven’t yet. It does not come with reverse, but XTM does sell a reverse module. The two speed tranny does what it needs to do and geared just right for “right from the start” take offs. It winds out really well before it burst into 2nd, then watch out because you just about have to get in your own car to keep up. You can tell they put a lot of thought into its design because it has lots of cross bracing throughout the chassis which keeps it strong and tight, not very much twist at all. It’s a cool truck with a mean attitude.

You can purchase the XTM Mammoth ST RTR Monster Truck Model 145619 at Wondertrail.com

Munro Collectible Faerie Glen Figurines

Munro has it covered when it comes to delicate and perfectly detailed figurines. The Faerie Glen series is the perfect example. All the fairies in this collection are just about as perfect as you can get a spot of paint to be in always the perfect places. The eyes are always captivating, skin tones are perfect in every detail and the slight swerves of the jewelry and ornamentation are ever so subtle and accurate. I love to look at these figures because they are calming and a sheer pleasure to look at. It kinda reminds me of innocence at its best. The Faerie Glen “puddy” cats are so darn cute, you just like to hold them and cuddle one just as you would a real kitty. They are perfectly detailed just as the normal fairies are and just as pleasurable to look at. A gift idea at its best!


You can purchase Munro Collectible Faerie Glen Figurines at Wondertrail.com

Megatech Avion RC Indoor Airplane

We opened our first Avion as soon as they arrived with anxious anticipation of what exactly it could do. In short…we were AMAZED and completely thrilled! This plane will turn within three feet, skim a wall, bounce back and keep on flying. We flew it in our store that also has high value breakables, and we weren’t afraid even once of possibly breaking anything. The Avion is so precise and gentile, anyone would get a real kick out of flying it. The plane actually charges from it’s transmitter and only takes a few minutes to get 10 or 15 minutes of joy to fly it. We’ve sold a bunch of these planes and it is tough to keep them on the shelf. I would recommend it for the beginner as well as the professional pilot; not because we sell them, but because they are pure fun and durable..


You can purchase the Megatech Avion RC Indoor Airplane Model MTC 9920 at Wondertrail.com

Kyosho GigaCrusher RTR Monster Truck

If you want a SCREAMIN’ DEMON, check out this truck. With its massive .28 (4.6cc) nitro engine and full time four wheel drive, you’ll be running over things the Traxxas T-Maxx will run away from. This model has on board reverse (one of the few models that do), with a three speed sealed auto transmission; it will get up and split before you can say “Where did it go?” The transmitter has a thumb switch on the side, and you can put this model in forward, neutral or reverse just as fast as your thumb can move the switch. It is a 1/8 scale truck which is slightly bigger than the normal monster trucks, but will jump and take a beating with the best of them. One really cool feature is the ram air air filter sticking up out of the hood. It really is the air filter for the engine and looks awesome. We had ours jumping during an expo in June off some ramps we made up, and the crowd was roaring with applause. We made these ramps about three feet tall with a run of about 6 feet. We could creep the GigaCrusher half way up the ramp, gun it, and it would dig in and still fly into the air about 4 feet and land on all fours. Of course, we aren’t the best drivers in the world, so it did tumble end over end quite a few times. But when all was said and done, it got back on its feet and took off like a bat out of hell. If you get one, make sure you go over it well by tightening every screw you can find, because the power and weight of this machine tends to make each joint work out hard. Kyosho makes it easy, too. They include everything in box except 12 AA batteries and fuel.

You can purchase the Kyosho Giga Crusher RTR Monster Truck Model 31144B at Wondertrail.com